Tuesday 22 October 2013

Indelible memories of Morocco

Indelible memories of Morocco

After our fill of mosques, souks, kasbahs and medinas it is the most unexpected things that stand out in our memories from our sojourn in Morocco.

Not the extraordinary history and monuments.

Not the Islamic teachings, which, if everyone followed would ensure a peaceful world.

Not the food (which was trés ordinaire - better Moroccan food in OZ).

Not the smiling, happy faces of the people who were very friendly (except the one's who were trying to divest us of our dirhams).

Not the scenery (which at times reminded us of the Australian outback) - and not the fragrant, refreshing mint tea to which we became addicted.

It was the casual way the people and authorities approached life.

To us, it appeared that the only thing the (mainly corrupt) police were interested in enforcing was whether or not a motorcycle was insured. Many times we saw the police stopping motorcyclists, checking their papers and mostly confiscating the bikes - impounding them to a following truck with the riders left to walk home.

This might sound OK until you see what the police turn a blind eye to:-

Obeying the red traffic lights - optional - or so it appeared. Motorcyclists wearing a helmet - optional.

It didn't seem to matter- how many people were riding on the back of a bike - (one time we saw 5, including a baby tied to it's mothers back, and another time 3 plus a sheep)


Only four on this one!
 

OR

How many people could be crammed into both the front and back seat of a car - or trailer for that matter - not a seatbelt in sight! We were gob-smacked when we were travelling on a narrow, winding, mountain road and came upon a van chocker block with people, back door wide open and one man on the back running board.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Could we get away with this in Australia?

 

 

 

 

OR

The young kid on roller blades holding onto the back door of a van as it raced along the busy main street - at night

OR

The teenagers on roller blades weaving in and out of the traffic, in the dark, on the main road!

 

Horatio Hornblower must have been this way as all the drivers think that honking the horn makes the cars go faster!! Driving along the roads everyone honks the horn to acknowledge that "I see you" or " do you see me overtaking" or " wake up sleepy head!"

 

To walk along the footpath is to take one's life into one's hands. Most had paving ripped up and not replaced or gaping holes, or ten centimetre bolts sticking up, or paving blocks teetering over cavities or piles of rubble or rubbish lying around. It was safer to walk on the road and dodge the traffic!

 

The person who invented plastic should be taken to Morocco to see the mess he created. In cities, villages and the open countryside - miles and miles of plastic bags or discarded plastic sheeting - in the fields, up in trees, on the roadside, outside shops.

Probably the best part was seeing the happy, relaxed lifestyle of the people in the small villages who really had a subsistence lifestyle: happy to walk for kilometres,even with toddlers in tow, or use the donkey - sometimes piling the family onto the back of the cart- and the young kids helping out in the fields or kicking a ball around in the dust and heat of the day. Seemingly not a care in the world!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This simple lifestyle is extraordinary until you see the luxurious and excessive lifestyle of the king - Mohammed VI. Apparently he doesn't like staying in hotels, so all over Morocco he has huge palaces where he might stay for a day or two each year. At each , there is a full time staff of over five hundred, guards, cleaners, gardeners etc. At the Royal Palace in Rabat, his favourite, the staff numbers over five thousand!

 

On a final cheeky note - those "mailboxes" - try posting a letter in one of these!

 

Sunday 20 October 2013

In the poo .... so to speak!

The tanneries of Fez.


Think of the worst smell imaginable and then some. As we entered the shop selling all kinds of leather goods we wondered why we were ceremoniously presented with a few stems of mint. They had the most inviting fragrance - all the better to mask what we were to confront.

Below us were a myriad of round wells or vats, some filled with whitish green liquid, others with coloured liquid.

 

 

Some with men half immersed in the vats, others stomping on something inside and others pulling out coloured lengths of what looked like fabric.


These whitish-green vats contain a mixture of pigeon poo and vinegar and have THE most revolting smell even the mint cannot disguise.

People get paid about $2 per kilo to collect the poo (that's a lot of pigeons)!


The skins are left in these vats for several days to become supple, then washed and placed in the dye vats.

 

 

This was the well documented tannery of which Fez is famous and the vats contained skins of sheep, camel and goat being slowly stripped of their wool, made supple then dyed before being transformed.

In the showroom were racks of long and short coats, suitcases, satchels etc and rows and rows of Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Dior handbags. The snake oil salesman, with hand on heart assured me they were the absolute genuine item "we make them here for the big fashion houses!"

As if!

Needless to say my money stayed in my pocket!

 

 

 

 

Friday 18 October 2013

A visit to the souks!

Shoes in all shapes, colours and sizes ..... some soft, some for inside the kasbah, some for outside. The fashion conscious men seem to prefer the bright yellow version worn with white socks and a white jellaba.



Lanterns to light the way ... or a cedar pendant for the lady?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dried fruit, herbs and spices of all descriptions and for every use under the sun. For beautiful skin, indigestion, constipation, eczema, acne, rheumatism, fertility, contraception and even snoring!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tête d'agneau

 

OR ..... ready to throw on the barbie!

 

YSL in Marrakech.

Yves Saint Laurent acquired and restored the Marjorelle Garden many years ago

The is one of the twentieth century's most mysterious gardens containing over one hundred different species of rare plants, mostly cacti, of all shapes and forms, from all over the world. Truly incredible. Here's just a taste.


It is now a tranquil oasis on the outskirts of a hot, noisy,busy city.

 

Tribal man!

David the Tuareg.

The Tuareg are sometimes called the "Blue People" because the indigo pigment in the cloth of their traditional robes and turbans stained their skin dark blue. The traditional indigo turban is still preferred for celebrations and guess who couldn't help himself?

Interestingly, it is the Tuareg men (not the women) who wear the veil as an initiation symbol!

 

Come with us to the kasbah!

Hold onto your hats for this story!

October 16 is one of the most important days in the Moslem calendar.

The day before came as quite a shock to us. All over Marrakech we saw men on motorbikes with a sheep draped between them and the handlebars.

Most times there was also a pillion passenger.

Sometimes the sheep got a ride on a cart or in the back of a open 'tuk-tuk'.

Then .......

.... the old saying "like lambs to the slaughter" was literally happening right in front of our eyes!

What is it all about? This special day is Eid al-Adha (Eid). Muslims worldwide sacrifice a sheep in celebration of the prophet Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his first-born son but was spared from doing so when Allah provided a lamb instead of his son to sacrifice.

Early on the day of Eid the family slaughter a sheep in their courtyard or street, skin it, cook the head and all the offal and feast with their family. The carcass is hung overnight and cooked the following day and the feasting continues.


All over Casablanca we saw men and young boys either tending the 'Baa Baa Q', chopping blackened sheep's heads with meat cleavers or walking nonchalantly in the streets carrying huge, machete-like knives and wearing bloodied coats, aprons and boots! The smoke and the smell of burning sheep was all pervasive.

After the feast the skins are gathered and taken to the tannery to be made into rugs, slippers etc. Sometimes they remain in the streets for several days before they are removed!

All this is seen as a normal event in the cultural calendar but our animal rights' groups and the ABC would have a field day over here on Eid!

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Friday 11 October 2013

L'Hermine - the symbol of Vannes

We first thought the animal insignia on the flag of Vannes was a rat or stoat! How wrong could we be. It is an ermine, prized for its long, white, winter fur.

 

 

The mystery of the ermine goes back to the Middle Ages when the fleur de lys, the Virgin Mary and the ermine became symbols for purity.

 

The ermine, chosen as the Breton insignia, represents the animal's tail, known as the "moucheture" (or ermine spot) fixed to the coat of arms with three brooches.

 

 

Legend has it that when out riding, Anne of Brittany (who is also known for decreeing that there would be no road tolls), spared the life of a hunted ermine, brought to bay in a muddy pool, because it preferred to turn and face it's hunters and death, rather than spoil its coat.

Thus was born Brittany's motto: "Rather dead than soiled!"

 

 

 

Thursday 10 October 2013

Les plus beaux villages de France

Rochefort-en-Terre

 

 

 

They are full of character and usually full of flowers. Rochefort-en-Terre was no exception!





The streets are small and winding and everywhere we walked we encountered beautiful photo opportunities with abundant flower pots and baskets lovingly tended by the very proud residents.